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”I just couldn’t help it - I had decided not to have my own collection again but I couldn’t resist any longer”, says Susanne Beskow about starting up her own label van Deurs again after a long break working with other brands. Her passion has obviously paid off since she is now one of the nominated for Rookies& Players company of the year 2007.

Susanne is a designer with a lot of passion, not the least for the technique she is working with – pleating. When she starts talking about the design, how different fabrics react when pleating them and other technical things, something happens. It is obvious how much she loves this process. “It comes from the heart, it’s a project full of joy”, she explains when talking about it.

From the first collection. Picture by Martin Beskow. The interest for the technique has been there all the time since she finished Beckmans School of Design in 1992. Her first collection was based on it and when looking at old pictures there is a clear resemblance to the clothes and accessories that she creates today.

She did an attempt to start her own business right after school. After three years of hard work, but not enough money in, she had to take a break and started working at Axén & Co. She has also worked as a freelancer as well as teaching at Konstfack for several years. After more then ten years it was time to start up her own label again and she is now on her third season with van Deurs.

Though it is hard, and she still has to freelance a bit, the company is developing and sales increase for every season. The Swedish fashion From Rookies & Players, February -07. Picture by Kristian Löveborg. industry is exploding right now, but Swedes are still conservative in their choice of clothes. “You can tell that something has happened though, people on the street are talking about Swedish fashion in a different way compared to earlier”, says Susanne and continues; “Swedes still have a bit of a small town mentality where they don’t want to stick out from the crowd too much, therefore exporting will always be important to be able to grow”.

Swedes in general might be conservative but Susanne thinks that a combination of extensive travelling, our distinct seasons and the nature that surrounds us, even in a city like Stockholm, gives the creative people a lot of inspiration and everything they need to compete on the international arena, though still working with Sweden as a base.

On the issue of the booming Swedish industry, Susanne has a lot to say. As a board member of “The Swedish Associations of Designers” and on the reference group for a committee working with the development From the first collection. Picture by Martin Beskow. of Swedish fashion, she is heavily involved in the future and the development of the industry. Helping other small designer to an easier start then she had herself is definitely another of her passions in life. “This project is so interesting since it is very open to all designers”, she says about her work with the reference group for Swedish fashion.

The nomination to become Rookies&Players company of the year has already had impact to Susanne. “I have had quite a lot of media interest since I became nominated and this makes it easier to get meetings with buyers since they know who you are”, she explains. “This is important to get into the markets I want to get into” she says and looks out in the glittering sunshine, where spring is making its way full of promises for the future.